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choose
from:
pizza
indian
chinese
burgers
tourist menu
cucino romano
or
click here
instead for information on bars,
the tiny street cafés of Italy.
Romebuddy is not really a foodie. We wouldn't
know a Tuscany Shrimp from a Sushi Sausage, and let's face it, twenty-four
hours after you've eaten some fine gastronomic meal, you'll be flushing
it down the toilet, so why wait an hour to be served something that's
only gonna take you twenty minutes to eat? If you're a tourist here on
a tight itinerary, you'll have better things to do with your time.
Sightseeing
makes you hungry. Tourism, or trying to settle into a strange country
can also be stressful and disquieting, so 'comfort food' can play a very
big part in helping you recover from another hard and sweaty day in the
ruins of Old Rome.
After living
in Rome for five years, we've decided that what's most important here
for restaurants is good standards of service, fast delivery times, and
plain solid tasty meals with ingredients we can recognise.
Here then
is Romebuddy's simple, straight to the point guide to restaurants in Rome
that'll help you unwind and take on body nutrition with the least amount
of fuss in this extremely fussy and furious city.
On the whole,
Italian food is good, it's tasty, satisfying, and they give you plenty
of it, and although the service is often a little slow, and the customer
toilets out back are often slightly disgusting, the service generally
comes with a smile, and you don't have to dress up for a Rome restaurant
like Lord and Lady Muck - Waiters and proprietors of restaurants here
are usually cheerful, down to earth people who just want to see you go
home filled and happy. So try to just get out there and enjoy Italian
cooking.
Listed below
are Romebuddy's personal favourites. I don't accept any responsibility
or liability for what you may experience in any of these establishments,
I'm not gonna guarantee anything, and everybody's tastebuds are different,
but I simply say that I've eaten at all these places with no complaints,
and I haven't hurled afterwards.
So
- you wanna restaurant?
For pizza,
check
out:
Bella
Napoli
Via Alessandria 13
00198 Roma
Tel 06 854 2966
I already
knew that pizza was an Italian invention, but what an ignoramus such as
me didn't know until I lived in Italy was that the actual birthplace of
the pizza in Italy is Naples, (or 'Napoli' as the Italians spell it).
Thus, Bella Napoli pizza restaurant, is not just aptly named, it's actually
a real traditional family-owned restaurant
run by a mother and her sons from Naples. But if you think from that,
that it's some tiny little rustic half-assed operation, you'd be wrong
- The gang at Bella Napoli have really got their act together -
Not only is it a popular
haunt with local Roman Italians, they're also in tune with what tourists
want - Their premises are large with plenty of seating, yet the place
also retains a cosy, casual atmosphere, and they also have sidewalk tables.
Menus are printed (or explained) in English and they even have a choice
of thin'n'crispy pizzas, or deep pan, though Italian deep pan is nowhere
as deep as American deep pan. Anyway, when in Rome, you really should
make a point of trying the authentic thin and crispy pizzas, they're much
healthier, and you can taste the fresh and subtle Italian topping flavours
much better.
Bella Napoli
pizza restaurant (the Italian word for a pizza joint is 'pizzeria' - pronounced
'peets-air-rear' - No, don't be cruel, it doesn't really rhyme with diarrhea...)
is a stone's throw from the British Embassy, just on the north side of
central Rome.
A word of advice -
I'd been going to Bella Napoli for a while before I realised that the
woman I thought was a waitress was in fact the owner. What does that tell
you? It tells you that many Italians are hard-working, self-effacing,
sincere, polite people who don't put on airs and graces of grandeur. When
you visit Bella Napoli to eat, it's more like visiting this woman's home.
There is none of the snooty professional distance of, say, a French restaurant,
or the pretentiousness of fake Italian restaurants you may find at
home. Bella Napoli is the real thing, so be careful and considerate how
you treat staff in any Italian restaurant, because they may turn out to
be the proprietor.
Tired
of pizza?
For something completely different, try:
Ar
Grottino der Traslocatore
Largo Delle Sette Chiese 2
00145 Roma
Tel 06 514 1261
Nearest subway stop,
Garbatella, on the Linea B
This is the
kind of restaurant that as soon as you step in the door and look around,
you'll want to say "Honey, let's go someplace else..."
But if you
do that, you'll miss a rare and unique treat. Ar Grottino der Traslocatino,
in appearance, lives up to it's name - It looks grotty and run down, more
like seedy truckstop, or a soup-kitchen run out of a subterranean bomb-shelter
- And it's tiny - There's only room for about forty people in the whole
place, sitting elbow to elbow. But it's actually perfectly clean, and
the food is superb.
Really, this place
is for food-fans only, and you'll need to know some Italian. There isn't
really a menu as such, they look like they're sort of making it up as
they go along, it's all very laid back.
Because it's so small,
there isn't room for the waiters to get around the table properly, so
they just dump a pile of cutlery silverware on end of your table and you
lay out your place settings yourself. But this is real home-made 'cucino
romano' Roman cooking, like-a-mama-used-a-to-make-a.
Don't get me wrong
- They're not deliberately trying to be rustic and rough-handed just for
laughs - This is not a novelty restaurant. It's simply that they cook
real food for real Romans in a quiet corner of the city,
and they've got more talent in the kitchen than space in the dining area.
This place is not for the faint of heart - it's for experienced tourists
only looking for authentic romano cuisine, but try it anyway (phone first
or you will never get a seat) and it'll be a dining experience you'll
never forget. Just go for it, okay?
Chinese?
Try:
La
Pace
Via
Madonna Dei Monte 53
00184 Roma
Tel 06 488 0346
Typical Chinese
restaurant, all the usual familiar items on the menu, very centrally located
in busy, picturesque, atmospheric Roman street, close to all the main
action.
Y'all know
about Chinese food, it's a good
reliable standby, and just about your only alternative if you're getting
tired of Italian food after a few days in Rome. What more can I say? -
except that the staff in La Pace, although Chinese, speak Italian, an
interesting combination, I always feel. They're closed Mondays, though
so are a lot of restaurants and stores in Rome, so wherever you eat in
Rome, phone ahead of time, preferably the day before, to check opening
hours and reservations.
For a specifically
tourist oriented restaurant, with pizzas and also a much wider selection
of dishes, click on:
Taverna Parione
Via di Parione 38
00186 Roma
Telephone 06 686 9545
Just off Piazza Navona, in the fabulous old west central area of the
city. We've eaten there and it's great. They specialise in what's known
as 'Romano' cooking, ie, it's authentic, traditional Roman 'cuisine',
but they are also nicely set up to do pizzas.
Plenty of room, menu items translated into English, proper Italian cooking,
and a small army of speedy, helpful staff. Taverna Parione understands
the needs of foreign tourists. For more details and sample menus, click
their link above.
Indian...
We
mentioned above that Chinese is your only alternative to Italian cooking
in Rome. Actually, that's not strictly true. Around the corner from
La Pace Chinese restaurant, (although I forget its name), there's an
Indian restaurant on Via Dei Serpenti (Snake Street, aptly named). The
Indian restaurant industry in Italy is not as well developed as in say,
England.
In
Italy, Indian restaurants are expensive, presented as rare, exotic upmarket
haunts for rare and exotic clientele. Italians think that having a curry
is frightfully daring. So don't expect to get good value here for Indian
food. Italians by and large cannot handle really hot curry, so the cheap
and cheerful, simple but effective beer and vindaloo meals so familiar
in England are not as easily found in Rome.
Burger
and be damned...
Some
Italian restaurants do make an attempt at putting hamburger on the menu,
but hey, what's the point? It would be like eating spaghetti made by
Russians. Although it's true that in fact most chefs in Rome's restaurants
are not even Italian anymore - (They're actually Egyptian or Filipino,
because the current generation of Italians look down their noses at
the low pay of kitchen staff), even so, you're unlikely to find an authentic
American burger anywhere in Rome. So do yourself a favour and try to
stick to Italian cooking in Italy. Unless, that is, you're absolutely
desperate, in which case,
there's always McDonalds!
McDonalds
have about twenty joints all around town now. They first opened here
about fifteen years ago with a place in Piazza Di Spagna. At that time
Rome city council was very suspicious of the whole idea, so they specified
to MacDonalds that they had to build a restaurant which was in character
with the historical architecture and culture of the area, both inside
and out.
McDonalds
responded by building the most bizarre McD's restaurant you'll ever
see - The facade is very low key, not the familiar red and yellow corporate
colors, but gold lettering on dark grey marble, so it's difficult to
spot at first. Inside, you'll find mock-marble replica fountains, real
terra-cotta brickwork, fresco murals, salad bars and displays of fresh
fruit in wooden barrows similar to those in Campo dei Fiori.
Other
branches added later around other districts of Rome are more conventional
in appearance. Although there's now a McDonalds in every far-flung suburb
of Rome, the main locations you'll need as a tourist in the central
Rome area are at:
Piazza
Di Spagna
Via del Corso
Piazza Barberini
Via Nazionale
Piazza della Repubblica
Piazza della Rotonda (opposite the Pantheon)
Piazza Sidney Sonnino (in Trastevere)
(tell 'em Sid sent ya!)
There's also one at the beach at Ostia Lido.
That
concludes Romebuddy's gastronomic tour of Rome for now. Let us know
if you find anyplace else that's good value for money, as we in the
free democratic west would define that term.
Happy
pigging...
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